I really thought I would have trouble dropping and retrieving the anchor on my 16 SC. It's actually really easy. I drop the anchor from the side of the boat, tie a loop in the rope, then reach through the middle windshield and put the Loop over the bow cleat. To retrieve, I reach through windshield, unhook the rope, walk over to the side, and pull it up from there. No crawling on bow, no stool. I did it in current too. It may be more difficult in rough water, especially pulling up from the side. Wouldn't want to have the boat sideways pulling up in rougher water, or very strong current, but flat, to moderate water it seems to work fine
I will be Sturgeon fishing for the next few months on anchor, so hopefully this method works out well
I have yet to use the anchor on the 17 Chaser, if/when I ever need to I may do the same thing, but with the skip top I have no problem grabbing the bars on the skip top and maneuvering to the front of the boat.
Where do you do most of your sturgeon fishing, the river or the bay?
Quote from: Rokefin on December 20, 2017, 04:25:13 PM
I have yet to use the anchor on the 17 Chaser, if/when I ever need to I may do the same thing, but with the skip top I have no problem grabbing the bars on the skip top and maneuvering to the front of the boat.
Where do you do most of your sturgeon fishing, the river or the bay?
Both the bay, Delta, or river. Depending on tides and water temperature
I'll have to give that a try when I put my new bow anchor roller on. Tired of crawling through the window too, what a PITA, my shins will appreciate it too :jester:
That works in places with light current. Don't try it here in the Columbia River with the current screaming along at 4-5 mph :bigshock:
There are several threads on anchoring closed bow boats in a current. Your method works, as long as you don't need to get off anchor in a hurry.
Quote from: Threeweight on December 20, 2017, 05:07:19 PM
That works in places with light current. Don't try it here in the Columbia River with the current screaming along at 4-5 mph :bigshock:
There are several threads on anchoring closed bow boats in a current. Your method works, as long as you don't need to get off anchor in a hurry.
If I need to get off anchor quick to chase a fish I could just unloop rope from bow cleat. I have a float ball on the end of the anchor rope
Quote from: AJFishin on December 20, 2017, 05:01:42 PM
I'll have to give that a try when I put my new bow anchor roller on. Tired of crawling through the window too, what a PITA, my shins will appreciate it too :jester:
AJ, I just put the loop in the rope over the bow cleat. I'm about 6ft tall and I cannot reach all the way to the bow roller. I have the split bow rails so not a problem. It would also make it very hard to get off the anchor quick if I put the rope in the roller
Fisher:
There's an easier way. Here's how: For your 16, make-up a 5/8" dock line about 15 feet long with two backspliced loops. Loop one end on the forward cleat and pass it through the bow roller with the closer pin. Connect a stainless carabiner to the other loop. The line is kept along the gunwale when not in use, with the carabiner end secured on deck.
When anchoring, simply toss-out the anchor as appropriate, then make that loop you mentioned in the anchor line and connect it to the carabiner. Throw it overboard. Any extra line can simply sit on deck, under the seat and out of the way. When retrieving, simply motor forward in such a way that the line comes up to the side; close enough to be picked-up........either by hand or with a boat hook.
Didn't take me too many trips, busting my hump going forward, before I got smart.
Yat
Fisherdv, I anchor from the inside of the boat without climbing to the front. There is a old thread called Arima's anchoring issue dated February 12, 2016. I have several photos how my anchoring systems works. I live in Elk Grove if you would like to come by and see it. The design was copied from a older Arima person named LVRWURST.
I usually fish for sturgeon in Cache Slough, Rio Vista, Pittsburg and Montezuma Slough.
Arima's anchoring issue
http://www.arimaowners.com/index.php?topic=11189.0
Quote from: Fishin Machine on December 20, 2017, 08:07:34 PM
Fisherdv, I anchor from the inside of the boat without climbing to the front. There is a old thread called Arima's anchoring issue dated February 12, 2016. I have several photos how my anchoring systems works. I live in Elk Grove if you would like to come by and see it. The design was copied from a older Arima person named LVRWURST.
I usually fish for sturgeon in Cache Slough, Rio Vista, Pittsburg and Montezuma Slough.
Arima's anchoring issue
http://www.arimaowners.com/index.php?topic=11189.0
FM, I fish the same areas as well as a few others. I read through some of those threads a few months ago and haven't had the need yet for the anchor. Some of those examples seem kinda complicated to me with all the ropes, shackles and carabiner (I don't even know what a caribiner is) and dangling ropes. I guess I'll have to go back through and read those threads again. I've been so busy lately I haven't had the time to really try it. As you know, that deep, fast water in Cache slough can be tough to hold bottom on anchor, not to mention the debris and tree size logs that can come down
Not sure if this would work in rivers, but seems similar to what's been described:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5b4G0IlWwcE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5b4G0IlWwcE)
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alnxr9itfVk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alnxr9itfVk)
Quote from: Fisherdv on December 20, 2017, 05:56:31 PM
Quote from: AJFishin on December 20, 2017, 05:01:42 PM
I'll have to give that a try when I put my new bow anchor roller on. Tired of crawling through the window too, what a PITA, my shins will appreciate it too :jester:
AJ, I just put the loop in the rope over the bow cleat. I'm about 6ft tall and I cannot reach all the way to the bow roller. I have the split bow rails so not a problem. It would also make it very hard to get off the anchor quick if I put the rope in the roller
I would mainly use this quick to release method, on calm days, when I fishing an oil rig and I can not leave anything behind, since technically I'm illegally anchored near the rig. So I need something that's quick to retrieve so I can GTFO when I see the oil rig boat coming in. Usually the captain has some nice words he likes to share with me when he's motoring in :jester:
FM, I forgot to mention thanks for the offer to come look at your setup. If I know I'll be passing by that way I might send a PM through to ya
AJ, that's funny :jester:
Quote from: AJFishin on December 20, 2017, 09:02:32 PM
Quote from: Fisherdv on December 20, 2017, 05:56:31 PM
Quote from: AJFishin on December 20, 2017, 05:01:42 PM
I'll have to give that a try when I put my new bow anchor roller on. Tired of crawling through the window too, what a PITA, my shins will appreciate it too :jester:
AJ, I just put the loop in the rope over the bow cleat. I'm about 6ft tall and I cannot reach all the way to the bow roller. I have the split bow rails so not a problem. It would also make it very hard to get off the anchor quick if I put the rope in the roller
I would mainly use this quick to release method, on calm days, when I fishing an oil rig and I can not leave anything behind, since technically I'm illegally anchored near the rig. So I need something that's quick to retrieve so I can GTFO when I see the oil rig boat coming in. Usually the captain has some nice words he likes to share with me when he's motoring in :jester:
(https://cdn.meme.am/instances/29786153/just-smile-and-wave-boys-smile-and-wave.jpg)
Quote from: Mooch on December 20, 2017, 08:49:59 PM
Not sure if this would work in rivers, but seems similar to what's been described:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5b4G0IlWwcE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5b4G0IlWwcE)
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alnxr9itfVk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alnxr9itfVk)
Thanks for the videos Mooch. I know a lot of people use that technique, but it just seems like a lot going on with doing it that way :shrug9: Although with the larger Arimas that may be the only way besides a windless
Sorry guys, but looking at those videos would be enough to discourage anybody. :hoboy: IMO, it's just way too much gear for accomplishing a simple job on a small boat. Read my post again, then sleep on it.
BTW, I discovered an easy way to pull anchor from the side of a boat, in a river with a current, is to have someone at the helm, keeping the boat parallel to that current while motoring slowly forward. Worked for me. :shrug9:
Yat
Both the U-tube links show anchoring with a plough anchor. The lower shows retrieving with a float.
In the Willamette and Columbia (both big current rivers) we must use around a 30# gravel anchor. Shaped like a "T" with 'rockers' at each end of the cross on the T. The a small chain is secured from the cross point of the T to the bottom with the chain secured with a break away zip tie (around 70#. This allows the anchor to be lifted by the cross point if stuck. From the small chain we secure 10 to 20 feet of 3/8 regular chain then the anchor rode (rope). It is not uncommon to find yourself anchoring in a 'hog' line in order to get your lure close to a sweet spot. The downside of that is that when you get a fish on, you do not want to fight it in proximity to other peoples rigging, so you must drop out of the hog line. That is not the time to pull your anchor.
Thus we have developed a variety of systems for dropping and retrieving our anchors without having to pull the.
Yat, if that would be too much work, or too complicated, you will miss some of the best fishing areas on our rivers.
To each his own.
The system Woody posted several years ago works quite nicely, however, you need to do it a couple of times before it is no longer 'complicated'
StreamFixer
Fixer; When you get a fish on, you must "drop out of the hog line"? Not sure if I'm familiar with the "hog line" thing, but does that mean that when you hook-up you have to release your anchor? :shrug9: What happens then? Do you "chase" this fish around the "not-so-crowded" areas of the river? I suppose that's where the float comes-in? :shrug9: Aaah don't know. :hoboy:
Yat
BTW..........Seeing Mooch's YouTube clip with the Arima reminded me: There's only one sound I like better than hearing long fingernails being dragged across a blackboard..........and that's the sound of anchor chain being raked across gel coat. :doh:
Yat
Quote from: Yachter Yat on December 21, 2017, 08:52:02 AM
Fixer; When you get a fish on, you must "drop out of the hog line"? Not sure if I'm familiar with the "hog line" thing, but does that mean that when you hook-up you have to release your anchor? :shrug9: What happens then? Do you "chase" this fish around the "not-so-crowded" areas of the river? I suppose that's where the float comes-in? :shrug9: Aaah don't know. :hoboy:
Yat
Yat, you don't have to drop out of the hog line but imagine if your fish tangles in someone else's line. They wouldn't be happy but worse yet, it's an easy way of losing your salmon.
The second reason fro dropping out is so that you're not fighting the fish in the current although with the barbless hook rule in the river, the current is your friend.
Lastly, you want to have control of your boat to manage the line so that's the first stays out in front of the fisherman.
All that being said, I fished a great season right under the I5 bridge about 6 years ago and we never dropped out. With all of the sea lions, you want to get the salmon to the boat as quickly as possible. Dropping out just wastes time and gives the sea lion time to find your fish.
Here's a fish from that year. It was a great year! :cha:
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/0/1_05_02_11_2_25_59_4871577.jpeg)
Danno, thanks for that. Guess I'm just not familiar enough with your river fishing techniques out there. Great pic, BTW. Happy face and nice fish.......doesn't get any better.
Yat
Re: not dropping off anchor and fighting fish... that works as long as the current isn't ripping. I've lost fish at Coon Island on Multnomah Channel, and at the end of the Channel in front of St. Helens, to pulled hooks because the current just gives the fish too much leverage. The other issue is safety... in typical spring chinook fishing conditions here, we often get high flows that will move logs and debris down river. These things don't make a sound, and don't have much profile above the water. I really like being able to dump anchor and get the heck out of dodge instantly if I need to.
Anchoring is not the strong suit of Arima's. It's the main reason I bought my tin can vs. a Sea Legend.
Quote from: Yachter Yat on December 21, 2017, 08:52:02 AM
Fixer; When you get a fish on, you must "drop out of the hog line"? Not sure if I'm familiar with the "hog line" thing, but does that mean that when you hook-up you have to release your anchor? :shrug9: What happens then? Do you "chase" this fish around the "not-so-crowded" areas of the river? I suppose that's where the float comes-in? :shrug9: Aaah don't know. :hoboy:
Yat
Not sure that "Hog Line" has been defined for you yet.
A "Hog Line" is line of boats, anchored side x side x side in close proximity to each other, sometimes 6-12 boats wide or more, the line of boats perpendicular to the river current, and presumably to the expected path of the up-migrating salmon. Not sure where the term originated, but here's a pic
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4007/4613051940_5d44bb5487_z.jpg)
I think it all comes down to what works best for the area/conditions we fish. No doubt an open bow boat like Croaker or a tin can is much easier to anchor in. It's good to know the different ways and methods that people use so you can decide what works best, or just experiment till you find what works for you. In my usual conditions and areas I fish my method works for me, on my 16. No matter which method you use to anchor make sure you have a way to get off anchor in a hurry if needed. It could be to chase a fish, or it could save your A$$ if a large tree is coming at your anchor rope in a strong current. I always keep a sharp knife on my belt, and one in reach on the boat. You may have no choice but to cut the anchor rope
When you get a fish on, you disconnect from your anchor... the ball keeps the line end floating and thus retrievable, After landing or losing the fish, you return to your spot in the line, hook back onto your anchor and resume fishing. The ball has an anchor retriever as shown in the second video.
When the time comes to leave, you simply motor upstream until the ball lifts the anchor (and holds it suspended). Then pull in and go home. Saves a lot of back using the ball and boat to do the lifting. The ring will work, however, the retriever shown is, IMHO, more reliable.
StreamFixer
Quote from: Peddler on December 21, 2017, 02:23:49 PM
Quote from: Yachter Yat on December 21, 2017, 08:52:02 AM
Fixer; When you get a fish on, you must "drop out of the hog line"? Not sure if I'm familiar with the "hog line" thing, but does that mean that when you hook-up you have to release your anchor? :shrug9: What happens then? Do you "chase" this fish around the "not-so-crowded" areas of the river? I suppose that's where the float comes-in? :shrug9: Aaah don't know. :hoboy:
Yat
Not sure that "Hog Line" has been defined for you yet.
A "Hog Line" is line of boats, anchored side x side x side in close proximity to each other, sometimes 6-12 boats wide or more, the line of boats perpendicular to the river current, and presumably to the expected path of the up-migrating salmon. Not sure where the term originated, but here's a pic
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4007/4613051940_5d44bb5487_z.jpg)
That's a modest spacing. Up near the Oregon City bridge and in the small rivers, you can walk from boat to boat. Fenders are deployed to minimize damage from bumps.
For you guys that fish the Columbia river "hog line" why not just go a bit up, or down stream from the heard and be anchored up all by yourself? I'm sure everyone is launching long before sunrise and fighting to get the best spot in the line. Obviously that's not the only spot on the river that holds fish :shrug9: I've fished with the heard myself, but lately I don't like to "combat" fish anymore. I usually catch just as many, if not more fish all by my lonesome. Just curious what you guys think or have experienced
Fish (at least up here) prefer to move through lesser currents. The hog line fishers know where those currents run, thus focus their efforts where the fish tend to be. There are spots on the Willamette where, when the fish are running, guys will anchor up around 10 in the evening and spend the night... No fishing allowed after dark. Those spots will usually accommodate only one or two boats.
StreamFixer
Wow! That's unreal. Must say though, I share Fisher's sentiments.........meaning; I'd be looking for a little more "breathing" room.
Yat
Move 200 yards above or below those boats and you'd likely catch nothing all day. As Streamfixer says, they are targeting bottom features that create current breaks. Salmon want to conserve energy, so they follow those breaks, sometimes almost single file.
When there isn't any current break, or the tide is flooding in and overwhelming the current from the flow of the river, they spread out. The Columbia is a huge river, a couple miles wide here in Portland. Willamette is a 1/4 mile or so wide. In those situations it is better to troll, but even then you want to follow bottom contours and look for underwater structure that funnels the fish. Randomly anchoring in the sandy flats where there is plenty of room is like trying to find a needle in a haystack... you might get lucky and have a biting fish swim under you, but the odds are pretty poor.
I hate hog lines, for the record!
3WT, there has to be some other features on the river besides the hog line. I'm not saying to anchor blind on a flat, but find maybe a ledge, an under water channel, a break or some area that would funnel fish to you. I've found sometimes in a fast outgoing tide the fish will tuck in close to the bank to get a break or rest during the fastest part of the tide. Not a shallow flat next to the bank, but water of about 15 ft deep very close to shore. I always stay on, or follow/fish the path were I know the fish are traveling. Of course I've never fished the Columbia before, so I'm just guessing. But as you said, it's a huge river and there must be good fishy areas away from the crowd, even if you have to travel a few miles away. Believe me, I've fished shoulder to shoulder, boat to boat, and even had someone troll into my boat while I was anchored and that day there was only a few boats on a very large area. :hoboy: But anyway, as you said also, I don't really enjoy being part of the combat zone. But let's be honest, if I really have to do it, I'll be right there with the 🥊 gloves on. :jester: This is just my :twocents:
There is a bit of cooperative effort advantage to a hog line as well. Imagine yourself as a salmon, and running into a gauntlet of lures and baits. You're likely to bite something, rather than swim-around.
I'm w/ 3WT though. I never have fished in a hog line, and it's not likely I will. I'd rather troll.
Some of this conversation sounds just like the conversation I have with my nephew who fishes in Washington, elbow to elbow, combat fishing.
He fishes from a river bank near him and tells me stories of how it can get pretty aggressive while fishing. He's told me when someone new comes down and doesn't "follow the leader" when casting, some of the guys there can turn it into a bad day for someone.
Kind of reminds me of back in the days surfing during the winter at our "locals only" break. :smile1:
Ya, I've seen fist fights in fast waist high current (not to smart) people stealing fish etc. You'd be surprised what an adult man would do for a salmon. I only troll for salmon, and even then you could have over 100 boats in a 1/4 mile stretch of river! They see a few fish caught and they think that's the only spot that the fish are. I go a 1/2 mile, maybe 5 miles away from the crowd and still find fish. But I do look for some sort of path/features that most of the fish will follow or spots I've been successful before. Probably easier here to find fish because the rivers much narrower than the Columbia.
The same year I noted above, I was in the hog line on a number of days. Once we were 10 feet from the boat towards center river and we watched them pull in fish after fish.When they limited, they moved out and we moved over. We got into the fish well once we moved. One of those times, we were in the fish and boats on either side were not. Luckily, we were in a tin can that makes hog line maneuvering real easy.
Sometimes parking on anchor makes for a very relaxing day of fishing. I have no preference. Whichever catches fish unless I'm in need of a relaxing day.
You guys got me thinking of salmon fishing and our season is done. Until next year! I'll have a few months of relaxing days out there on anchor for Sturgeon.
I hope to get out for winter springs tomorrow before the snow comes.
J.
Quote from: J Chaser on December 22, 2017, 11:35:53 AM
I hope to get out for winter springs tomorrow before the snow comes.
J.
Good luck out there J, And have a great Christmas and New Year :beerchug:
You as well!!
Thanks
J.
Holy tin can convention!! You kidding me! Hog line - whos in whos out......I don't know, I could never imagine fishing like that. Those fish are in those holes though and that's why you see the tight crowds. I'm glad I am an ocean only fisherman and am often away from the crowds.....heck, that hog line could play a game of dice together hmmmmm maybe that would be fun.
I'm throwing my anchor out :wink:
How would one take a potty break :shrug9: You move from your spot in line, and your spots gone! :hoboy:
A game of chess anyone :jester:
Quote from: Fisherdv on December 22, 2017, 12:59:44 PM
How would one take a potty break :shrug9: You move from your spot in line, and your spots gone! :hoboy:
A game of chess anyone :jester:
Nope, your anchor ball holds your spot.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looked back at that pic again. Interesting that they're all "tin cans". I haven't see that much aluminum operating so close together since seeing the Air Force Thunderbirds show over at Portsmouth. :hoboy: It just doesn't seem these boats could ever sit straight forever. I mean......somebody's got to touch somebody, sometime........right? I'd hate to be the only glass boat in that crowd. Can you say........"Fenders, please!"?
Yat
Waves, wind? Forgot about it :shrug9:
Quote from: Fisherdv on December 22, 2017, 12:59:44 PM
How would one take a potty break :shrug9: You move from your spot in line, and your spots gone! :hoboy:
You have got to be kidding??? You head for shore to pee??? Don't you have a piss can or bucket on board??? :hoboy:
When your bladder has shrunk to the size of mine (1 cuppa coffee results in at least a gallon of potty breaks) you would never get any fishing done... :biggrin:
StreamFixer
There is a reason its called a hawg line!
Quote from: StreamFixer on December 22, 2017, 02:03:50 PM
Quote from: Fisherdv on December 22, 2017, 12:59:44 PM
How would one take a potty break :shrug9: You move from your spot in line, and your spots gone! :hoboy:
You have got to be kidding??? You head for shore to pee??? Don't you have a piss can or bucket on board??? :hoboy:
When you bladder has shrunk to the size of mine (1 cuppa coffee results in at least a gallon of potty breaks) you would never get any fishing done... :biggrin:
StreamFixer
SF, I'm just worried I would get stage fright with such a large audience :redface:
Fixer Your killin' me! :jester: All I can say is: I've come to really appreciate your extraordinary level of honesty. :jester: Who would have thought it? :jester: And Fisher......"Stage fright"? Haaaaaaahaha..............I've got a stomach ache.
Yat
One of the reasons I bought my Hewes over other tin cans is the stand-up potty area with a privacy curtain in the cabin for the ladies and the pee-shy.
I haven't had a good laugh like this in a while! Thx guys! :clap: :beerchug:
Stage fright is the worst. It never fails when you gotta go and nothing happens (https://i.imgur.com/dibsdH2.gif)
WOW!!! talk about egos... you guys really think that little thing is going to frighten other fishermen??? :hoboy: :stirthepot:
StreamFixer
HAhahah! I mean, think about it; the hog line is completely silent, everyone staring at there pole tip waiting for a nibble, and then your the only one in the line standing :shrug9: :redface: :redface: :redface: :jester:
Well, it's the long time spent digging through the layers, then the inevitable search ... At that point, they're just jealous of your success... :dance:
StreamFixer
Quote from: StreamFixer on December 22, 2017, 04:41:49 PM
WOW!!! talk about egos... you guys really think that little thing is going to frighten other fishermen??? :hoboy: :stirthepot:
StreamFixer
Last time out, we had a couple of Makos circling the boat. This is one time a short pole comes in handy. :stirthepot:
Quote from: Croaker Stroker on December 22, 2017, 05:04:44 PM
Quote from: StreamFixer on December 22, 2017, 04:41:49 PM
WOW!!! talk about egos... you guys really think that little thing is going to frighten other fishermen??? :hoboy: :stirthepot:
StreamFixer
Last time out, we had a couple of Makos circling the boat. This is one time a short pole comes in handy. :stirthepot:
Wow, you would need a short,and stout pole with a lot of backbone for that!😳
My fishing buddy actually hooked him ....and fought him....until he closed his mouth.
Quote from: Croaker Stroker on December 22, 2017, 05:54:19 PM
My fishing buddy actually hooked him ....and fought him....until he closed his mouth.
Did you guys get to see him jump? Those things are crazy
I've hooked a couple of thresher sharks before, those things jump like marlin :shark:
Those big sharks can be a formidable opponent. I imagine they could really raise hell with a nice new shiny boat as well. If those teeth didn't cut the line before getting too close, I'd be willing to bet things could get nasty. Keep those cutters handy. :whistle:
Yat
Quote from: Fisherdv on December 22, 2017, 06:03:33 PM
Quote from: Croaker Stroker on December 22, 2017, 05:54:19 PM
My fishing buddy actually hooked him ....and fought him....until he closed his mouth.
Did you guys get to see him jump? Those things are crazy
I don't think he knew he was hooked. :jester:
I will be fishing on anchor tomorrow for Sturgeon in a good current. I would like to put up the full canvas top as it's going to be in the low 30's in the morning. Probably not that cold for some and I wouldn't mind, but I'm coming down with a cold or the flu and really wanted to get out there. The method I mentioned in the first post is not going to work with the top up so I need another way. I was thinking what if I took a rope and looped it over the bow cleat and through the bow roller as Yat mentioned, and take the other end of that same rope and loop it over the cleat on the starboard side rear of the boat, for the anchor rope, put a D-ring on the end and slide it on the first rope that runs from the bow roller to the rear side cleat, drop anchor over and let the current pull the anchor rope to the bow roller. To retrieve, drive forward till the anchor D-ring comes to the side of the boat and pull it up from there. This may be similar to what has been mentioned? Do you guys think this would work without having the SS D-ring scratch the side of my gel coat?
Yat, this is probably very similar to what you described, but I need a way to get off anchor in a hurry. So with the way I mentioned above I would put a float ball attached to the D-ring on the anchor rope , then to get off anchor, just untie the first rope at the rear cleat :shrug9:
Anchor to bow roller then to cleat along any of the gunnels will have you somewhat sideways in the current.
If you wish to hang straight in the current, you will need to go anchor to bow roller then cleat in line with the keel and tie off. One of our posters made an arrangement on his boat to be able to control the anchor from the drivers seat by cutting holes in the deck. Another option if you are so inclined.
If you wish to retrieve from the cockpit of the boat, attache a second line to a loop in the anchor line with a slack line back to one of the gunnel cleats. I think that is what you mentioned a couple of posts above. Do not allow tension in this second line while on passive anchor or you will swing. With the D ring running free, you have an increased chance of the anchor line fouling the prop on the main. Not very controllable, or safe, with the D ring (running free on a slack line) able to do as it wishes.
When time to up anchor comes, pull in the second line, from the stationary loop in the anchor line, as the boat advances toward the anchor. Get hold of the anchor line and continue to pull that in by hand, as the boat advances, until the anchor is on-board. All while taking EXTREME care you do not foul the anchor line in the prop. That will result in you being anchored stern to the current with the anchor pulling down on the transom. Many a boat has been sunk that way.
Please note, when tying a loop in the anchor line with full tension anticipated to be applied to the loop knot, you will likely have a tough time getting that knot loose at the end of the day...
The primary reason the hog line fishermen use the ball is to be able to return to their position in the line. The secondary reason is how easy it makes anchor retrieval. An anchor hanging from a ball just seems a lot easier to get back on board than one laying on the bottom.
Stream Fixer
Thanks SF, appreciate the tips. I'll have to experiment a bit. There's a series of king tides this weekend. When the tide turns and starts heading out there will be 11 feet of water movement from high to low :bigshock: The outgoing tide is going to be rippin! High is 10.75, to a low of -1.75. I may just have to do without the canvas up and just anchor as in the first post. That fast of a tide may not be a good time for experimentation
I think what complicates this is the need to "get off anchor in a hurry". Not criticizing, but simply stating what your needing to do. If that's the case, then the slip ring and ball idea might be the way to go. That said, I still feel my solution (with the 15 foot tether) is the simplest. Only problem is, it involves motoring forward to retrieve. Then again, there's no reason why you couldn't attach a ball at the point you make the loop in the anchor line as described in my post.......is there? Now that I think about it, I honestly believe having that float ball would make retrieval a hellavalot quicker. Remember, you still have to start that motor, no matter what......right? As I see this, the only downside might be the extra line (meaning that which was unused and kept on deck) goes in the water. Now if that happens to be something like a hundred feet of extra line, I guess you might have to consider the potential problem it could create for your "neighbors"......if you get my drift.
Maybe I'm not explaining this clearly. Okay......let me try this: Let's say you have 200 feet of anchor line, and from the float to the anchor, you happen to be using 100. Then, in that case (when you ditched-it), there would be 100 feet left floating-away as you chased whatever you were chasing. Certainly something to consider.
Here's another thing: I don't know how much anchor line you guys carry, but I have 150 feet. Obviously, I never anchor in very deep water. After all, it's only a 16 foot boat. Further, that 150 is actually two lines......a 50 and a 100. My lines are eye-spliced, and one end always has a stainless shackle affixed for quick attachment. Since we generally anchor in fairly shallow water, I almost always find myself using the 50. If I ever get in trouble, then the 100 can be quickly attached. My only concern is (in the event of a power failure) having enough to stop me from crashing into some rocky shore. I always felt 150 would put the brakes- on long before that ever happened.
Yat
When dropping your anchor line (usually 300') the excess rode is contained in a anchor line bag (mesh bag made specifically for that purpose. This eliminates the probability of your, or someone elses, line fouling your prop when you return...
Basically a different method of fishing...
Yat, PM me your address and I'll send you a CD titled Anchor Fishing for Salmon and Steelhead. Very informative for those who have not experienced a hog line and the rivers/currents our fish pass through...
StreamFixer
I got to try anchoring my 16 SC in some real current in the bay. Very large king tides today. So far the best and easiest way for me to anchor my little 16 is how I described in the first post. The only hiccup was at the last spot I anchored with rippin outgoing tide, I went to pull up the anchor and it was stuck so hard in the clay mud bottom that I almost ripped my arms off :doh: I tried hooking the anchor on the bow cleat and driving forward and it still wouldn't budge. I was scared I might rip my bow cleat off so I tried by hand again and after a good few f-bombs I finally pulled it loose. My back is gonna be sore tomorrow. Didn't get stuck anywhere else, just this one spot and there was no snags, just hard mud and a strong tide. Did not get any Sturgeon today but they were there. Lots of big marks on the fish finder, and a few huge jumpers right behind the boat. That's how it goes sometimes with Sturgeon fishing.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/10/9220-301217185820-105461140.jpeg)
I gotta say, this boat fishes very well on anchor. Stable, and the boat stays nice and straight in a current. However, there wasn't much wind today either.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/10/9220-301217185820-10546660.jpeg)
Fisher; What are you using for an anchor, and how much chain are you running? I ask because sometimes a big anchor can be tough to retrieve. Not only that, but not really necessary on these small boats. I'm running a Fortress FX7 with probably no more than 4 feet of chain. Never had any problems holding, but I never anchor in very deep water very strong currents.
Yat
I almost bought that same Fortress FX7 at west marine a few months ago. I really like the light weight of it. Not cheap, and not sure such a light anchor would hold in some of the stronger bay/river currents. Right now I'm using a similar style anchor that says number (8) on it with about 8 ft of chain. I usually don't have a problem retrieving it but I think with that really strong tide yesterday it dug in deep. Mud bottom with lots of little clam shells in it. But, I think I will purchase the FX7 to try just because I like the light weight of it. I just worry a bit with all those bolts holding it together that a few would come loose
I suppose it would be smart to check now and then. That said, after over 20 years, I've never had anything come loose on my Fortress.
Yat
Fisherdv, does your anchor have a break-away chain where the chain is bolted to the base of the anchor but you use zip ties at the top? This really helps on stubborn anchor holds and is the main feature of the rocker anchors so you never have to worry about leaving an anchor behind.
A couple of tips which apply more to hog lines when anchored: You can pull your rode in a couple of feet and wrap it around one of the cleat adjacent to the bow to shift your position to starboard or port. Similarly, you can turn your outboard one direction or the other to move you about three or four feet over.
Quote from: Danno on December 31, 2017, 10:19:36 AM
Fisherdv, does your anchor have a break-away chain where the chain is bolted to the base of the anchor but you use zip ties at the top? This really helps on stubborn anchor holds and is the main feature of the rocker anchors so you never have to worry about leaving an anchor behind.
A couple of tips which apply more to hog lines when anchored: You can pull your rode in a couple of feet and wrap it around one of the cleat adjacent to the bow to shift your position to starboard or port. Similarly, you can turn your outboard one direction or the other to move you about three or four feet over.
No break away chain, I'm not sure I follow how that works. :shrug9:
I have one of those aluminum anchors that I never use because they are so darn expensive. I have used Danforth anchors for fourty years and never had an issue. Then, I bought one of those 11 lb Lewmar claw anchors on EBay. They really hold much better than the Danforth....and, considering the price of a Fortress, you can afford to loose one now and then.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lewmar-57905-Claw-Anchor-17-22-11lb/391188439049?epid=1542101552&hash=item5b14a5e009:g:GpkAAOSw2GlXHsha&vxp=mtr
I consider my anchor a safety device... As a last resort before being washed into the rocks or on the beach.
I have used the zip tie method and it works great. But, if you use that method, you really need a second anchor that would not break-away in an emergency. Rather than using zip ties....I buy cheap anchors.
I have the danforth style anchor now and it works great but it's heavy especially with a good amount of chain. Those claws work well too. I guess I want the lightest, but still able to hold anchor to save my back. Sometimes I run to several different spots in a day Sturgeon fishing and many times I'll just stay in a spot that isn't productive because I just don't want to lift the anchor. Me and one of my fishing buddies used to have a rule, if we took his boat, I would have anchor duty, if we were on mine, he would. I would love to just have a windless but I think my boats to small to accommodate it
Fisher, I hear you. Yanking on an anchor has never really been one of my favorite sports. That's one of the reasons for the Fortress.
Yeah......a little expensive, Croaker, but for a guy with your money? :whistle: Ebay shows some FX7 anchors for around $120, free shipping. You might do slightly better with a little looking, I suppose. I can tell you this: I'm spoiled! If ever lossed mine, I'd definitely have to replace it.
Yat
I am old and weak, so I use this method.....no muscle needed. :jester:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-7v8uiDWFnE
Yat, I am very cheap. I can't bring myself to throw away a $120 anchor. The fact that I bought it for $20 at a garage sale doesn't matter.
Here's a pretty one for sale...
https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bpo/d/anchor/6420113287.html
Quote from: Croaker Stroker on December 31, 2017, 11:56:15 AM
Here's a pretty one for sale...
https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bpo/d/anchor/6420113287.html
Hey , that one would match my SS PowerTech prop! :jester:
Fisherdv
On our double tine on a cross piece plus 24" +/- shank river anchors, designed for use in rocks and gravel, i.e., not sandy bottom, the chain is shackled to the bottom, or cross, part of the anchor. The chain is then strung along the shank of the anchor where it is zip tied to the loop in the top of the anchor. Zip ties come in various breaking strength. I use 75# zips. In the event the anchor is fouled when trying to retrieve in the normal manner (top of shank first) a good hard pull will break the zip tie allowing the anchor to be lifted from the bottom (cross). Unless the chain is fouled (seldom occurs unless a reef or wreckage is involved) you will likely pull the anchor loose from whatever was fouling it. Then you apply a new zip tie and you are set to go.
I have only lost one anchor. A collapsible 30# rock anchor ($130 gift). I did not realize I had lost it until I had tied off the rode, but kept drifting downstream. We found the shackle pin on the floor... Anchor plus chain still sitting on the bottom I am sure.
StreamFixer
I have a cheapo slip ring anchor and has worked good for me. It's got stuck in the mud in a few times, but I've always get it back.
Quote from: AJFishin on December 31, 2017, 04:52:25 PM
I have a cheapo slip ring anchor and has worked good for me. It's got stuck in the mud in a few times, but I've always get it back.
I wondered about those. I guess that slip ring is designed so you drive forward and the ring slides to the front and pulls the anchor out. I always thought they looked to light to me to hold well
Quote from: Yachter Yat on December 31, 2017, 11:25:24 AM
Fisher, I hear you. Yanking on an anchor has never really been one of my favorite sports. That's one of the reasons for the Fortress.
Yeah......a little expensive, Croaker, but for a guy with your money? :whistle: Ebay shows some FX7 anchors for around $120, free shipping. You might do slightly better with a little looking, I suppose. I can tell you this: I'm spoiled! If ever lossed mine, I'd definitely have to replace it.
Yat
$99 at West Marine, free shipping
I use an EZ Marine puller.No way I am pulling up 600' of line and 25' of 5/16 chain by hand!
Quote from: Fisherdv on January 01, 2018, 08:07:18 PM
Quote from: Yachter Yat on December 31, 2017, 11:25:24 AM
Fisher, I hear you. Yanking on an anchor has never really been one of my favorite sports. That's one of the reasons for the Fortress.
Yeah......a little expensive, Croaker, but for a guy with your money? :whistle: Ebay shows some FX7 anchors for around $120, free shipping. You might do slightly better with a little looking, I suppose. I can tell you this: I'm spoiled! If ever lossed mine, I'd definitely have to replace it.
Yat
$99 at West Marine, free shipping
Fortress guardian is $76 on Amazon. ....free shipping for Prime members.
The Guardian is their economy line. Not a bad price though.
Yat
Dang it Yat, look what you made me do!!! :biggrin:
:jester: Sorry Fisher..........I can't help myself. :jester: Seriously though, I believe that's one purchase you won't regret. :wink:
Yat
You know, I almost bought that anchor a while ago, I even had it in my hand at West Marine but I needed some other stuff first so I put it down. My traditional danforth type anchor has done me very well for many years but I'm just getting tired of the weight of it. The Fortress is at least half the weight
Hey, BTW, you said that anchor was $99 at West Marine. I did a search on their site and couldn't seem to find that. Wonder if it's something exclusive to the West Coast, or what?? Don't mean to be presumptuous, but is that what you paid?
Yat
Yes, $99, free shipping
I have 3 anchors.Manson extreme which was a waste of money even on sale for 50.00.A lightweight no name Danforth copy that holds ok.A Real Danforth 13S that sticks and holds everytime.Nothing creates more work than an anchor that slips.
I agree about the danforth anchors, I've had mine for over 20 years. Hopefully this lightweight Fortress anchor will live up to its reviews and reputation. Although I may just keep the danforth in the boat just in case
I used the Fortress FX7 anchor today and it works great. Even in a pretty strong outgoing tide it held. My back thanks me :jester:
I've anchored many times now with my 16 SC and I'll say again, dropping the anchor from the side, then tying a loop in the rope (after enough line is out), then walk the rope around the side of the boat till it's in the front, then reach through middle windshield and put the loop over the bow cleat. I do not use the bow roller, just the cleat. Retrieving is the reverse, then pull up anchor from the side on the deck, and feed your rope into your anchor bucket. Very easy! Sorry if I'm repeating myself I just wanted to describe it a little better for those who may wanna try it.
Fisher: I'm telling you man; from the way you describe your anchoring technique, you should make that tether I talked about. It would be so much easier. Again: About a 15 foot length of 1/2" line with 2 eye splices. Hook to the cleat and go through the roller. The line simply rests along the walkway and secured in the boat when not in use. The end that goes overboard has a spring loaded carabiner on the eye splice.
Throw the anchor out to the necessary length, tie a quick loop in the anchor line and click-it into the carabiner. Throw the tether over. The balance of anchor line not used simply stays in the boat. When retrieving, power forward till the tether comes along side and pick it up. No going forward through the windshield, around canvas bows, etc., etc. Easy.
Yat
Yat, when dropping or powering forward do you run the risk of that caribiner scratching along the side of your gel coat? Where do you clip or secure it inside the boat? Also the way I describe there is no going through the windshield, simply reaching forward to the bow cleat
No problem with that carabiner. Even if it touches the boat, it would never do so hard enough to do any damage; that thing has no sharp edges. The tether lies along the starboard walkway and I simply keep it wrapped around that little wood support stanchion. The excess line and carabiner sit in the lower starboard storage shelf.........simple.
Here's the thing: If I try to anchor without this tether, (after setting the anchor) I have to manhandle the excess line around my canvas bows and VHF antenna, which is mounted on the starboard side, just about where the side and front windshield intersect. Then I have to stretch to reach the cleat? Just can't do it.........forget about the bow roller. All the while, the boat might be moving along in some substantially strong wind or current? :hoboy: No way am I ever doing that again.
What would facilitate anchoring with these Arimas is if they designed some kind of step in the cabin opening. I made this suggestion years ago but never heard anything on it. My thought at the time was to have some kind of built-in assembly that would be mounted to the bulkhead panels and perhaps slide out of the way when not in use. See........it's like I said years ago: Arima needs me.......they just don't know it. :jester:
Yat
Yat, you are correct that my anchoring method will not work with the canvas up. With no canvas it's really easy. No extra dangling lines or added steps. But, I will give your method a try. Next time I'm at Westmarine I'll pick up a 15 ft dock line with eye splices on both ends. I already have a good SS caribiner. Wait a minute, how do I get off the anchor in a hurry that way??? With my method I just reach forward and unhook the rope on the bow cleat and let all the line feed out and over, I have a float ball on the end of the anchor rope. I really need that option especially Sturgeon Fishing, and for safety reasons. :shrug9:
I think you'd simply attach a ball to the loop you make. Meaning the loop you attach to the carabiner. You would then power forward and unhook the tether and dump the excess anchor line overboard. If your going to let go of your anchor, wouldn't you be running the motor? Would it even be safe to unhook without having that motor running? :shrug9:
I suppose the question is; how much more time would it take to unhook under both scenarios. The way I see it, either way, you should start that motor. So.....that's a wash. Now, under the method you're describing, you go (or reach) forward and unhook the line from the cleat, right? Okay, but in order to do that, you might still have to power forward a bit to relieve the pressure from that anchor line...........no? See.............we're getting close aren't we?
BTW, I'm not sure if you can get an off-the-shelf line with two eye splices; especially one as specifically long as you'd like. I learned to splice from Chapman's and always had to make my own.
Yat